WINE BASICS:
Grape in the spotlight:
Sagrantino
All About Sagrantino
Never say “No” to Sagrantino.
The grape has a marginally untraceable history but is suspected to have arrived to Umbria, Italy, in the 14th century. It was brought there by Franciscan friars returning from prayer trips in Asia Minor. The etymology suggests that it was used for sacramental rituals (from the Latin “sacer”, meaning sacred). In the 16th century, Sagrantino received its first official documentation in Pliny the Elder’s Naturalis Historia. For centuries, Sagrantino was made only in a sweet, dessert “passito” style and it became the fulcrum of the local economy in Montefalco. It was not until the 1970s when it was first produced in a “secco” or dry style. It has a powerful structure and great complexity with impressive tannins. Comparatively, it has even greater tannins and polyphenols than Aglianico and Tannat and almost double the amount found in other powerhouse wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo.
Sagrantino is most widely planted in Umbria, Italy; in fact, 90% of Sagrantino plantings are found there. It is also making its appearance in New South Wales and South Australia, where it is characterized as being more “fruit-driven” and small plantings are beginning to emerge in the United States in the vineyards of California, Texas, Washington and North Carolina. Because the grape tolerates high heat very well, many producers are beginning to experiment with it in the face of climate changes.
In general, Sagrantino is only beginning to inch into the American market and remains relatively difficult to find in your typical wine shop. It is the best kept secret in Italian wines. The wines that are exported from there possess brooding red fruits, notes of plum, cinnamon, earth, black tea, black olive and black pepper. Ideal food pairings are those that rich in fat or umami. Roasted meats, rich cheeses and savory dishes featuring mushrooms are perfect for a glass of Sagrantino.
It’s also worth commenting on this wine from an investment standpoint. At last count, only about 1,000 hectares of Italian vineyards have been planted with Sagrantino (compared to ~63,000 hectares of Sangiovese). Its vines are relatively low-yielding giving limited production. Due to the high level of tannins, it also has tremendous aging potential. This combination of scarcity on the market, present-day price point and longevity of wine indicate it has all the makings for stocking up and cellaring for a good return on investment. But, make sure to enjoy drinking this along the way as well!