Domaine Labranche Laffont, Madiran, Vieilles Vignes, 2015
As coronavirus runs its rampage through our society we have been rationing our wine (does that sound familiar in your household too?). As a result, it has been a little too long since we’ve have had a French wine, let alone one of our favorites – a 100% Tannat from Madiran. Well, we dug up an excellent one crafted by Mademoiselle Christine Dupuy of Labranche-Laffont.
In 1993, Ms. Dupuy took over Domaine Labranche-Laffont located in Maumusson-Laguian, Gers and promoted exclusively organic practices in her vineyards, today holding an “Ecocert” stamp of approval. Perhaps even more impressive, Dupuy is one of two winemakers in Madiran to have Tannat vines that pre-date the phylloxera outbreak of the 1870s. The only other winemaker to be able to make that claim in the region? The notable Alain Brumont of Chateau Montus and Boucasse.
A half-hectare parcel is dedicated to Tannat grapes, with vines aging from 55 to an incredible 155 years. Soil is a mixture of silty clay and limestone with vineyards taking a south-southeast position. The soil undergoes minimal intervention and is plowed in the spring and autumn, with vines fertilized by compost in the fall. In the winery, carefully selected grapes undergo a 30-day maceration and temperature-controlled fermentation, with regular pumpover. Malolactic fermentation, or the conversion of tart malic acid into creamier, velvety lactic acid occurs during new and used oak aging for the next 12 months. Upon completion of oak aging, the wine is moved to concrete vats to continue aging for 18 months. No fining of the wine occurs, though gentle filtration is applied, as might be expected for a wine that is macerated for 30 days!
The result is a beautifully dark and inky, complex and delicious expression of a 100% Tannat wine, paying homage to old winemaking principles while celebrating modern elegance. The wine is dense and firm, but also refined. Aromas of spices, weathered leather, cedar and dark chocolate convert to robust dark blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, licorice and floral notes on the palate. At 14.5% ABV and with 2.7 g/L residual sugar (RS), the wine is best paired with your favorite carnivore treat alongside duck-fat and herb roasted vegetables, or dry, aged and hard cheeses. It also commands aging potential, so grab (at least) two bottles, one to indulge in now and one to cellar and enjoy down the road.
© 2020 – Healthiest Pour
100% Tannat
55-155 years old
30+ days
No fining, light filtration
12 months oak aging in new and used French oak
Exclusively organic practices, natural composting and hand-harvesting
8.4/10
